AA 947 touched down in Quito around 7:45pm CT on Friday, 11/10. We deplaned and made our way to baggage claim where I was met with warm hugs and smiles galore from the other CARE volunteers who would be joining me throughout the week long project. Matt, Abby and Sheila are old friends who have worked together on previous CARE projects across the world. This time last year in fact, they were working in the outskirts of Guatemala to educate women about the importance of education and pursuing better opportunities in the workforce. The three could not have been more welcoming. Matt lives and works in Atlanta as the CARE International Engagement Director, while Abby and Sheila are both native New Yorkers who co-chair the CARE Women’s Network of New York.
We hopped aboard the hotel transport shuttle and buckled up for the 45 minute drive to Quito, sharing stories and talking about plans for the following few days before the official program start on Sunday night. Abby and Sheila hired, a tour guide, Omar, to take them around Old Town while Matt committed to catching up on work in order to help prepare for the week ahead. I noted that depending on weather, I’d be hiking the Andes! Until then, I was most focused on a big glass of wine and a warm pillow.
The Saturday morning sun tempted me out of bed and urged me to hit the streets of Ecuador. To my pleasant surprise, the air was warm and there seemed to be no sign of rain in the forecast (completely opposite from Weather.com’s prediction that 65 degrees and thunderstorms were scheduled for the entire weekend). I stuffed my backpack with the essentials, stopped at the front desk for some general guidance, ordered an Uber and set off for TelefériQo! Note: For future Ecuadorian travelers, please keep in mind that Uber is considered to be illegal in the country. The drivers aren’t officially documented and cabs are recommended via the tourist board. #thethingsyoulearnafterthefact
My drive from the hotel up to TelefériQo took no longer than 25 minutes and cost roughly $3.25 (what?? true!!). Had I traveled by cab, the total cost would have likely been closer to $6.00, give or take. If not restricted by budget, a cab is the way to go here in Ecuador! Plus, it is much more dependable than bus transportation based on my conversations with the locals.
We pulled up to a massive, modern white building that looked similar to something you might see in StarTrek and I hopped out, heading straight for the ticket counter. Not 5 minutes later, I was crawling into an aerial tram car that scaled up the Andean peaks, dropping us off at roughly 12,000 ft over Quito. The views of the bustling metropolitan city below are absolutely sublime; a thick layer of sprawling greenery, majestic peaks – including the famed Cotopaxi which means ‘Neck of the Moon’, and the miles upon miles of Quito’s sprawl. It is a massive city and the scenes from above are breathtaking.
From the tram’s “landing pad”, I made my way higher into the Andes to trek. The summit of Rucu Pichincha reaches nearly 13,000 ft – at which point I was literally gasping so violently for air, that I had to plop down in the dirt before I keeled over at age 30. No joke – it was the most in touch I have ever been with my lungs. The altitude took complete control over my body; my muscles tightened and I reminded myself to start guzzling water. All things considered, the beauty atop the summit was payoff for the hard work that it took to get there. Ecuadorian horses grazed on grass in the distance and everything else seemed to fade away. It was me, my lungs, and the Andes Mountains sharing a moment of peace and appreciation that I won’t soon forget.
On the way down the tram, I befriended a Belgian couple (yep, the tram ride was a solid 20 minutes that allowed for plenty of chit-chat) who gave me some tips for “where to next”. I heeded their advice, envied their Spanish speaking skills and watched them drive away in a taxi after negotiating their rate home. Just as I was calling a cab, a group of English speakers started making their way to a van while asking others if they’d like to hitch a ride. (Don’t tell my mom, but…) I ran to the side of the van and asked a few of the passengers if the car was heading to the city – sure enough, it was! I did a quick risk assessment and thought, “What the hell?”
So, for $1 I joined eight other travelers who shared their adventures along the drive. Many had been traveling throughout South America for several weeks, and were able to shine light on the various hot spots and attractions throughout Ecuador, including my next stop — Old Town. Quito Old Town is a Spanish-colonial hub, complete with churches, plazas, local craftsmen, and bell towers. It is an extremely vibrant, trafficked, and historical epicenter. The smells and the sounds that fill the air and dance along the cobblestone streets take you back in time. For my first major South American city-center, I’d say Quito made a damn good impression.
The ham and cheese sandwich was made to order at the quaint, Dulcerea Colonial. From its patio, you have an entire view of Plaza Grande – the largest of the three major Plazas in Old Town. From there, I explored the surrounding areas by foot, weaving in and out of streets and following the general directions of The Lonely Planet’s Old Town city walking tour guide. I ended the day at Basilica del Voto Nacionale – a massive Gothic church which cannot be missed.
The religious structure boasts two towers that have the same awe inspiring look and feel of Paris’ Notre Dame, with colorful stain glass filling each of its windows. While mass was going on, I climbed the the very top of the church, balanced across the arch of the church via a small wooden plank walkway, and outside along the buttress to the very top of the Basilica. You have an open air view of all of Quito and are quite literally flying high off the side of the building. This escapade is not for the faint of heart OR for those scared of heights, but the thrill is INSANE!
Though building began back in 1926, the Basilica still isn’t complete. Apparently, there are superstitions in Ecuador that if the church were ever truly finished, an earthquake would strike and shatter all of the craftsmanship. That said, they are constantly “working to finish” the Basilica… with no end in sight 🙂
Night one ended with a CARE team dinner (including the five of us that had already arrived) at a lovely restaurant, Cafe Mosaico, overlooking Quito. With the traditional Ecuadorian fare of empanadas, Locro de Papa (potato soup), and coconut shrimp over steamed rice in our bellies – we made our way home and rested for day two at La Mitad del Mundo (the Center of the World).
Equator… here I come!
Well done Maggers!!!
Mags that Basilica experience and the dinner shots at night from up above Quito are awesome – great narrative also honey. My Quito experiences weren’t quite as nice – I visited the Catholic hospital daily for about a week. Ecuador really does seem like the center of the world ! Love Dad !